Sunday, January 31, 2010

TOMORROW, IN A YEAR... IN A NIGHT


† I don't know if it just happened to be coincidence but prior to my trip I had become obsessed with the BBC Planet Earth series. Not strange at all since I believe anyone that has seen even one of them knows how easy it is to get hooked on the wonderment of seeing the vast, seemingly untouched, natural world in HD. It's also hard to think that none of us will ever see even a fraction of this kind of nature up close, in person, for as long as we are alive.

Charles Darwin, however, must have been close. Prior to publishing Origin of the Species, the gestation period of his research was in excess of 20 some odd years. The Knife's electro opera celebrating the 150 years since the publication of the Origin of the Species was indeed an appropriate celebratory performance done through the means of post-modern dance and minimalistic staging.

At first I was a bit underwhelmed. I figured that with so much buzz around "The Knife Opera" and with Olof Dreijer attending an Amazon rainforest recording workshop and all, that they would have gone balls out. I had seen Karin Dreijer Andersson, also known as Fever Ray, perform recently at the Regency Ballroom in SF, and I was blown away by the elaborate staging. So naturally, I expected the opera to be ten times more elaborate and visually stimulating, especially with the help of two collaborators, Mt. Sims and Planningtorock. Perhaps it is just their continued secrecy and policy to never tour that also had me in high hopes.

Dansen Hus is a very intimate venue. Just about the size of a large school play auditorium. I was excited that I would be able to experience this from up very close (I was in the 10throw and somewhat near the middle). I took my seat and the show began. If you’ve listened to the full album that was released just recently, you’ll notice that it is incredibly slow. I had not been able to hear the full album prior to seeing the show so it was a bit unexpected. That was where I was underwhelmed.I kept waiting for more “sing-songy”, Knife-like riffs but I realized that I had to wait. After waiting a while, I realized that the purpose of their slow start off was to demonstrate the slow formation of the earth. The dancer’s movements were subtle to mimic the slow and steady processes of evolution. There was a small blonde dancer whose movements reminded me of the way the jungle creatures jerk and tick around in planet earth. At some point the main stage platform split open and the stage, which also represented a brick wall and I believe also the HMS Beagle, which Darwin was aboard during his research. It was exposed from the inside so that one could see all the neat rows of crazy LED lights. I did actually enjoy the deconstruction of the stage. To me it represented the moment of Darwin’s theory fully realized. Towards the end of the opera, the wait for the more Knife-esque songs were well worth it. They seemed obviously different and a bit unsure (in a good way) than their usual dark electro pop songs.

Olof Dreijer says: “At first it was very difficult as we really didn’t know anything about opera.  We’d never been to one. I didn’t even know what the word libretto meant. But after some studying, and just getting used to opera’s essence of pretentious and dramatic gestures, I found that there is a lot to learn and play with. In fact, our ignorance gave us a positive respect-less approach to making opera. It took me about a year to become emotionally moved by an opera singer and now I really do. I really like the basic theatrical values of opera and the easy way it brings forward a narrative. We’ve approached this before in The Knife but never in such a clear way.”

I left the opera not feeling underwhelmed like the way I came in. As the opera went on, my slight feelings of disappointment were transformed into feelings of satisfaction and enjoyment.The vocals of Jonathan Johansson were otherworldly, as were the tones of mezzo-soprano,Kristina Wahlin Mommes harmonizing with actress Laerke Winther. The dancers were able to transform themselves into moving caricatures of evolving animals without the aid of elaborate costumes. Although the studio version my not translate as well as far as “listenability goes” the opera, combining both the audio and visual aspects, truly shows the versatile nature of this ever-changing Swedish duo.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

CULTURE RAT

† upon being in stockholm, i've been able to expose myself to quite a bit of their native culture. being a female alone in a foreign city doesn't really allow for safe night activities like going out to bars. so instead, i opted for watching some movies in the warmth of my north face sleeping bag. this week i borrowed two swedish films from the hostel: fucking åmål and mammut. fucking åmål was my favorite. it's set in the swedish countryside and it's about two young high school girls that fall in love. it's a very sweet and unexpected story and the acting is brilliant. mammut was alright, it's about a successful new york couple with a young daughter and it's basically a movie about modern day globalization which i'm seriously tired of (it was sort of reminiscent of babel which i didn't really care for). i highly, highly recommend fucking åmål to anyone looking for a good movie to watch. i also love how foreigners will not even think twice about using "fuck" in their movie title.



† sweden has 2 great art museums. 1 is the national museet, and the other is  the moderna museet. i had initially only planned to go to the moderna museet because thats just my cup of tea. but on the way there, i passed the national museet and saw that they were having a caravaggio exhibit. i was also pleasantly surprised at their collection of masters paintings. both museums are located on skeppsholmen which is an island south east of the downtown stockholm area (technically, national museet is on the main part but it was just across the bridge).


† after coming back from my museum frenzy, i had dinner with two german girls who are also staying in my room. we walked over to a very cute restaurant just north of our hostel. i had flounder. what i soon realized when the tab came was that sweden puts a 25% tax on your restaurant bill to cover the costs of healthcare and high wages of their employees. i have no qualms about paying for that but i am glad this was the only time i ate out at a sit down restaurant during my whole trip. and needless to say, the food was delicious and the atmosphere was lively.

† lastly, i actually did make it out to a bar last night. i met an american girl who is now my roommate in the hostel and her friends (another american, an australian, and a slovenian). we all decided to trekk out to gamla stan in search of a club/bar. we ended up at a place called cattelin which seemed to be comprised of local swedish kids around 18-20 years old (no doubt i felt old). i had fun hanging out w/ new people and i'm glad i got to experience stockholm nightlife at least once. best part of the club- played good house music all night. wooooo. here's a really shitty video.

† and here are some other photos of the scenery as i was walking to my destinations. i've also included a video that shows the panoramic view from the bridge going to skeppsholmen.





† tonight is the knife opera. i will try to get some coverage of the event up right after the show. stay tuned -mich.


Thursday, January 28, 2010

WHEN IN SWEDEN, DO AS THE VIKINGS DO

† today was easily the highlight of my whole trip so far. i signed up for the "viking sauna tour" with my hostel. it was me, my tour guide lena (pronouned 'liana') and 4 other european guys. what this entails is trekking out to the forest, walking across a frozen lake, axing open a hole in the ice, then stripping down to your swimsuit, sitting in a hot sauna that's heated to 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees fahrenheit) and then lowering yourself into the freezing water beneath the ice. the water is at about 1 to 2 degrees centigrade (33.8 degrees fahrenheit).
this sounds like death but it was singlehandedly one of the most amazing experiences i've had. the best part of it, after you've gone into the ice water, your body then re-releases all the heat back into your bloodstream and there is this amazing sense of calm that comes over you. as i sat there next to the ice hole in the snow in my bikini, i closed my eyes and listened. what i realized was that for the first time in a reallllly long time, i heard absolutely nothing. the snow was falling and it muffled any far-off environmental noises there might be. and when it's this cold, there are no animals around, so you don't even hear birds chirping or rustling in the bushes. this is complete, deafening silence. i would kill for an hour of silence like that in the city. this sounds super corny but it was so silent i could almost hear my body speaking to me, thanking me for the entire experience.
i did the sauna to ice dip for about 2 rounds... mostly sat in the sauna sweating. but as this experience came to a close, i thought to myself, "i'm really happy i'm here, in sweden, in the wintertime, by myself." i remember being extremely apprehensive about traveling in the dead of winter, but i feel i couldn't have come at a better time. sure, it's cold and i have to bundle up and snow blows into my eyes from time to time... but hell, i'm in temperate weather all the time in california. coming here in the wintertime allowed me to experience something completely different and new. anyway, enough with the rambling, here are the photos.
†i am blessed.

















  

† also here's a silly video of me picking at the ice.





signing off,
†mich

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

GAMLA STAN+MEATBALLS

† it started to snow today... and currently it's still dumping. i went for a stroll this morning to go get some snacks at the local supermarket. i took some photos of the surrounding neighborhood. i think the main thing that strikes any born and raised american that travels to europe is just how awesome all the old european style neighborhoods look. if i could imagine how the insides of these apartments look, i would imagine them to have oak floors, floor to ceiling bookcases, antique globes, cantors of whiskey, and doilies.


† after the store, i walked in the snow over to gamla stan. gamla stan is an island located south of stockholm and is connected to downtown stockholm by a short bridge. it is considered the old town and has classic old european style buildings built super close together. of course it also has cobblestone streets. i was freezing my ass off as it was -3 degrees centigrade which is about 26.6 degrees fahrenheit (i officially hate the u.s. for giving us a completely bullshit measuring system). the old town has the royal palace (which i haven't visited yet) and it also has the nobel museum.







† and of course i can't forget about the food i ate. after visiting the nobel museum, i went over to a restaurant called martins gröna. for dinner, i signed up for a swedish dinner making session with some belgian girls from my hostel. here are the menus:

lunch: mixed vegetable rice wrapped in steamed baby cabbage "dolma" style with a side of potato, carrot, and root purée; served with a side salad with ligonberry dressing; and a small helping of chopped cucumber, tomato and lentils tossed together with a vinegar dressing (best vegetarian meal i've ever had).

dinner: moose meat and beef meatballs with cream sauce, ligonberry compote, boiled potatoes, and cucumber salad.

dessert: coffee and swedish sugar cookies. sooooo good.








 

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

SVENSKA

hello all who are reading this blog, i made it to stockholm safely.
there was some crazy turbulence that scared me as we were flying over the icy tip of greenland, but we made it through and now i'm here in the city of h&m's and ikeas (although i have yet to see an ikea here).

i actually took it pretty easy today as i only had 3 hours of sleep. the first leg of the flight was 6 hours but i couldn't sleep because the plane was shaking so violently. i slept the second leg of my flight (iceland to stockholm) but i've been awake for like 36 hours now.

my hostel is great, the staff is friendly, and everything is super clean. it's located central to all the shops in downtown stockholm which is great. i'm about 2 blocks from wesc, weekday (cheap monday flagship store) and a slew of h&m's.

tomorrow i'll be going on a bar tour with the hostel at 9pm so i'm hoping to make some friends there. on thursday morning, i'll be going on the famous viking sauna tour (where you sit in a sauna until your blood reaches a very high temperature and then you slowly lower yourself into a freezing lake). we'll see how well that goes over.

more pictures to come. for now... this is all i've got :) enjoy.







also, here is a short video of the landscape as i was riding the arlanda express bullet train into the city from the airport. lots o' snow.




†mich

Monday, January 25, 2010

THE IN-BETWEEN




†Current status: sitting on the floor at JFK trying to get all my shit charged before my 5-6ish hour flight to Reykjavik, Iceland and then the 2hr flight to Arlanda International Airport in Sweden.

The last few days in new york really reminded me of why i love it... and also reminded me of how much i love san francisco. Usually when i travel, i try to do as the romans do. i'm not a tourist trappy kind of person. i like to go to local dive bars and get cheap local eats. however, this time around, i was with two NY first timers; irene (my sister) and christine (my cousin). so we ended up doing a lot of touristy things. we went to times square the first night, a place i haven't been since i went there with the kristens 2 years ago. they also insisted on seeing central park, wtc, ellis island, and the arc de triomphe in washington sq. i have to admit, once i stopped caring about looking like a lost tourist and embracing my visitor-status, i had a lot of fun. the highlight of all this tourism being that we ate at cafe habana in soho (OMG THE CORN) and also grabbed some dank rice pudding from rice to riches (a bit rich for my tastes but good regardless).

that's all for now, i'm pretty excited and nervous all at time same time about boarding my flight in an hour. i'm not really sure what to expect, but i've got a plan if i end up by myself all week. check soon for more updates.

here's a garfield cartoon courtesy of drew that made me smile.





Wednesday, January 13, 2010

SCOOT! SCOOT!

mich is getting a scooter.
yep. you heard right.
i'm pretty excited to start scooting around san francisco. a few weeks ago, sfmta hiked up prices, yet again, for muni passes. for a muni + sf city bart pass = $70/month. you basically have to ride the muni at least once a day for the whole month to break even. total bullshit if you ask me. so i thought to myself, i could be scooting around the city on a scooter and i would save time on top of it.

muni ride from the mission to north point = 1 hour total travel time;
total distance traveled = 3.9 miles.

and since mom works for honda, i checked out the honda metropolitan. they're about $1000-$2000 cheaper than vespas and still look pretty good.


next up, motorcycle/scooter training at Bay Area Motorcycle Training. i have amit to go with so that should be fun.
i'll take pix of me on my scooter soon. anyone that has suggestions for helmets, please let me know!

and courtesy of drew lustro, here's a little hot chip song that has got everybody groovin'.



Hot Chip - One Life Stand